How to construct a conceptual garment

In early April 2019, the creative director of The Eye Travels approached me with a set of her hand sketches, and commissioned me to realize the sketches into a full size garment and a headpiece in one month. 

The design was inspired by the then Met Fashion exhibit theme “Camp.” My client interpreted this word as “a mode of performance and seeing everything in quotation marks,” with a key aspect of “failed seriousness” which can be found within the playful dynamics between high art and popular culture.

Sketches by The Eye Travels

How I work

Technical Drawings

Dress

Based on the sketches and my discussion with the client, I developed two versions of the design in technical drawings, then produced the prototypes for fittings.

Challenges

  • Build an architectural construction for the dress while being mindful about the weight and balance of the garment.
  • Difficulties in sewing a 0.75cm thick wool felt. The client wishes minimum stitching to be shown on the exterior of the dress.
Second Fitting
Fourth Fitting

Headpiece & eyes

For a dress with such a bold yet minimal silhouette, the details within this look are especially important. They are what give the dress a personality.

Challenges

  • Create an asymmetrical, sturdy headpiece with clean finishing.
  • Securely place a Louboutin heel on top of the headpiece. The weight of the heel is heavier than the headpiece.
  • Placement and attachment for cut out eyes and eyebrows.
Using AI and PS to illustrate various version of the headpiece and sizes of the eye
Versions of eyes and eyebrows placement on the dress

Final outcome

MET-Stairs-MET-Stares-Samantha-Angelo-The-Eye-Travels-Arthur-Elgort-Fashion-Fashion-Photography-Red-Dress-Design-Designer-Fashion-Designer-MET-Steps-Stairs-Dress-of-Stairs-Vogue-MET-Exhibit-2019
Processed with VSCO with fp1 preset
Samantha-Angelo-Arthur-Elgort-Fashion-Photography-Design-Designer-Fashion-Design-Red-Dress-Dress-of-Stairs-MET-Stairs-MET-Steps-MET-Camp-2019-Editorial-Style-Fashion-The-Eye-Travels
Samantha-Angelo-The-Eye-Travels-Design-Designer-Fashion-Designer-Eyes-MET-Stares-MET-Stairs-Dress-Costume-Shoe-Hat-Stiletto-Hat-Shoe-on-Head-Christian-Louboutin-JPG
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Photo source: https://theeyetravels.com/2019/05/met-stairs-met-stares/